Monday, June 13, 2016

Raglan Shirts

  For a long time, I meant to buy the Jalie raglan-sleeve women and girls' shirt pattern. I kept putting it off because raglan tees are more casual than my typical attire, but I realized this year that a lot of people on my gift list would probably prefer them to shirts with a set-in-sleeve. However, in a moment of temporary insanity (possibly driven by the multitude of cute versions I've seen and an about-to-end-sale) I ended up buying the updated Lane Raglan from Hey June Handmade.

  Then, to test it out, I sewed one for myself, with contrasting lace-print sleeves, pocket, and neckband to fancy it up a little.

  Based on my measurements, I chose a large with the FBA front, graded to a 2XL at the hips. I went down to a medium at the waist based on the finished garment measurements and my preferred fit.

  I sewed the elbow-length sleeves, neckband, and curved hem options with the pocket. Notches are included on most pieces, the instructions are very thorough (and illustrated rather than photographed!) and it looks like an attempt was made to true the pattern pieces, although there are still a few places where the angle isn't 90 degrees.

  As for the fit! Overall, I'm pleased. I've got a bit of creasing in the sleeve, but I suspect that might just be the nature of the beast with a one-piece raglan sleeve. The sleeves would be shorter than elbow length if I'd hemmed them following the instructions, and the shirt is on the short side too.... but I am taller than average. The neck is overly wide. I think it wouldn't be as bad if the neckband fabric had better recovery, but it's wide enough and low enough to cause problems when I bend over. Bringing the waist in created some drag lines from the bust, so it might look better to leave the waist looser. Also, I've apparently got a lot of wrinkling at the lower back that I didn't notice until I was looking at these photos!

  The black fabric is a 12oz cotton Lycra that I've used before, from Nick of Time Textiles, and the lace print is a cotton-rayon blend from the very first KnitFix.

  I liked the first one well enough to make a second. For this one I raised the neckline all around by 1", and shortened the neckband to match.

  The angle of the raglan in the back looks a little odd when the neckline is raised like this, and the higher neckline isn't as flattering, but I can bend over without exposing myself so I prefer this! ;-) I also lengthened the shirt by 2". Next time I'll add 1" for a lettuce-edged hem or 1.5" for a regular hem.

  And I finally added vinyl to a shirt for me! I get a lot of comments about how full my hands are (even if I only have one kid with me...), so I felt this was appropriate:

  The floral for this shirt is also from the first KnitFix, and I've used it before here. The blue is from Nick of Time Textiles. The blues don't quite match but I'm trying to ignore that! The stiffness of the solid means that this one isn't quite as comfortable as the black one, and the hem tends to roll up, so next time I use this knit for myself I'll twin-needle the hem instead of lettuce-edging it, and I might go up a tiny bit in size too.

  There will probably be more versions of this shirt in the future... it's a very quick sew and works in my wardrobe better than I expected! I might do some experimenting to get a better fit for myself, but for gifts it's close enough to ready-to-wear that I think it will work as is.

Thanks for stopping by,


  1. It is so great that you can adjust patterns as needed to get the fit you want. I l love the vinyl on your shirt- I get that from people a lot, too. :)

    1. Thank you! In all honesty, it's more trial-and-error than anything else at this point. Someday I hope to be able to do it more easily!

  2. I really like that lacy fabric!
    My big complaint with the Lane raglan was the neckline--it was so scoopy, but pictures I saw had it a bit higher in a way that was impossible unless people altered it and didn't say anything. I felt very exposed, too, so I combined the things I liked (the wrist and hem bands) with another raglan whose fit I liked better everywhere else. Good thing it's one of my most-worn knock-around shirts, or I'd be annoyed at the extra efforts, hahaha.

    1. I like that fabric too... prints that look like lace are definitely on my list of favorites. ;-) I know what you mean! I wish people would be more forthcoming about the alterations they made, and what parts of a pattern could use some help.