Pleats and Panels Skirt Tutorial, Part 1: Pattern

  I have a very large amount of pictures for this tutorial, so to make it a little easier, I'm splitting it up. For this post, we will be creating the pattern.  As a quick reminder, here is what we are making:

  First, there are a couple measurements you will need.  Measure your waist where you want the skirt to sit. For me this was 36.5 inches:

   Then the widest part of your hips (no picture) It isn't important how high or low this measurement is, just as long as it is the widest part. Next, measure from your waist down to your knee (21 inches):

  Then measure from the same spot on your waist down to your ankle, or wherever you want your skirt to hit, and it is time to do some math.

  This skirt is going to have 6 panels, so divide your hip measurement by 6.... you may want to add between 1/8 and 1/4 inch for ease after dividing. This is your A, your panel top measurement. (7.5 inches) The waistband is going to be 4 inches deep, so subtract that from your waist-to-knee measurement and you will have your panel height measurement, I'm going to call it PH (17)

 Draw two parallel lines on your paper the distance of your PH, mine were 17 inches apart:

  Mark the center of each line. On one line mark out from the center HALF of A- for me, 3.75 inches, then the same measurement the other direction. Repeat for the second line, but add an inch each direction. That inch translates to a total of 12 inches around the lower circumference of the skirt, for walking ease. My measurement was 4.75 inches out on each side, for a total panel bottom measurement of 9.5 (We will call this B). Using a straightedge, draw a line between the marks on the first and second lines, like so:

   This is your panel pattern piece. You can add seam allowances now... I added 1/2 inch on all 4 sides:

 Next, we will draw the waistband. Draw parallel lines 4 inches apart.

  Multiply your A by 2 to get your lower waistband front main measurement, or X and mark its beginning and end on the lower line- give yourself some room to either side. I made two marks, 15 inches apart. On the right, draw a line perpendicular to your mark.

   Now more math: Subtract your total waist measurement from your total hip measurement (9) and divide by 4. (2.25) Subtract that number from your X... I ended up with 12.75 inches. This is Y. On your top line, measure Y out to the left from your perpendicular line. I marked 12.75 inches from my perpendicular line. Using a square, figure out where on your angled line is a right angle, and make a curve from there to your lower line. From the curve you just made, mark up on your angle the height of your waistband, 4 inches. This should be above your top line. Gently curve this mark down into your top line. Round the top corner on your perpendicular line. You should, after all these complicated instructions, end up with something like this:

  You can see my original straight lines, where I curved it, the original angled line, and the seam allowance for the angled line. Add seam allowances to the other three sides:

   I marked buttons too, to remind me that this is the piece the top of the snaps will be on.

  Now cut this piece out, flip it over, and trace around it:

  Measure the A on the curved lower edge from the angled side (the left in the picture) and add one inch for overlap, plus the amount of the seam allowance you added to the other waistband piece earlier, and your new seam allowance. I measured 7.5 +1+.5+.5 for 9.5 inches from the left. Mark this spot, and make a line perpendicular to it for the inner edge of your secondary front waistband piece.

   Trace around your first waistband piece again and mark 1.5 times A , plus 1/2 inch for the seam allowance you added earlier, on the lower edge out from the angled side. I measured and marked 11.75 inches. Again, make a line perpendicular to your mark, but don't add seam allowance this time, as this edge will be against a fold. This is your back waistband piece:

   You now have all the pattern pieces you will need.... the pleat section is just a very large rectangle, so we are going to figure out the dimensions but not make a paper pattern.

  First, you need to find the circumference that your skirt will be at the knees once sewn, so multiply B (before seam allowances) by 6. (9.5X6= 57) I chose to make 12 pleats that were two inches deep each. Multiply your pleat number (12) by 2 times your pleat depth (2X2). My result was 48 inches. Add your pleat allowance to your lower skirt circumference- 57+48= 105 inches. I didn't have 105 straight inches of fabric, so I divided that number by two (52.5) and added seam allowances to either side  to come up with my pleat section width (53.5). 

  Now, for the height of pleat section: Subtract your waistband measurement and your PH from your waist-to-ankle measurement. For me, this was 38 minus 4, minus 17, leaving me with 17. Add 1/2 inch at the top for seam allowance, and 1 inch at the bottom for a hem. (18.5) So our pleat sections dimensions will be pleat width by pleat height, 53.5 by 18.5 for me.

  And that is how to create a pattern for the pleats and panels skirt. 

  Disclaimer: This method of making a skirt will give you a lot of extra room around the upper hips and lower stomach, but will allow you to close the entire skirt up and just have an opening in the waistband. If you would rather have a more fitted skirt with an opening in the skirt body, stick around and I'll show you how in a couple weeks. =)

 EDIT: For part 2 of this tutorial, cutting the fabric, go HERE

 For part 3 of this tutorial, sewing the skirt, go HERE

  Thanks for stopping by,

Paneled Skirt with Pleated Ruffle

This is my latest creation:

 It is a 6-paneled skirt with pleats from the knee down, snaps at the waistband, and plenty of top-stitching.

 A tutorial is in the works. Meanwhile, here are a couple more pictures:

(Yes, my boots ARE on the right feet. My legs are just crossed, for some reason that I cannot recall)

Here is a closer picture of the waistband. I almost never tuck my shirts in, but somehow it makes me oddly happy that the corner above the snaps is curved. =)

EDIT: The tutorial is finished! Part 1, making the pattern, is HERE
Part 2, cutting the fabric, is HERE
Part 3, sewing the skirt, is HERE
Thanks for stopping by,

Skirts Of Unusual Fabric

  If you read a lot of blogs, you have probably noticed people using painter's drop-cloths for all sorts of things, from curtains, to tablecloths, to tree skirts. There is one thing, however, that I haven't seen many people use a drop-cloth for: clothing. About a year and a half ago I decided to remedy that, and made myself a skirt using one.

  I made 8 slightly flared panels, French seamed together, added darts for shape, and a buttons with elastic loops on one side. The seams are all top-stitched, and the waist is simple folded over twice and sewn down. Here is a picture showing how the French seams look on the inside and outside:

   No raw edges! I love a completely finished garment. I wasn't completely impressed with the area around the buttons though... I just couldn't figure out a way to smoothly finish the edges. Also, the elastic started pulling out of its casing after a while.

  A few months ago I realized that all of my skirts were starting to look ratty, and since I had quite a bit of drop-cloth left, I made another skirt. This time I French-seamed the front seams completely closed, and instead of adding darts to the front I put buttons on both sides at an angle, so when buttoned the front is still properly fitted.

    I also added some hand-embroidery to the bottom, a simple vine-and-leaf pattern in brown floss.

   I made the mistake of using elastic loops again, so there is some pulling going on, but it isn't as dramatically stretched as on the first skirt. Next time I make this shape of skirt I will probably use fabric loops or do a different kind of button setup. Here is a picture of me wearing the embroidered one:

  Honestly, I love it! The fabric has such a lovely drape to it, it feels like a linen blend. I have noticed that not all drop-cloths are created equal though. I prefer the ones found at Ace Hardware to the ones found at Home Depot, for example. I have another drop-cloth garment in the idea stage, and one that just needs a little bit of tweaking, so hopefully I will have another one to show soon.

 Thanks for stopping by,

Baby wearing wrap

  Ever since Gaiw was born, she has loved to be carried and held. (That is her nickname, by the way. =)) I have a baby front pack, but she is growing fast, and now she is too heavy to carry on the front comfortably. I've been looking for a while for a backpack to carry her in, but they are all pretty expensive.
 
A couple weeks ago, my sister-in-law told me about a carrier she plans to use with her twins once they are born, the Moby wrap. It sounded interesting, so when I got home I looked it up. What I learned is this: the Moby wrap is a stretchy carrier used to wrap and tie the baby to you. It can be used from birth up to 35 lbs, but can't be used as a back carrier. There are carriers that are similar for back use, the main difference being the lack of stretch. When I looked closer, I discovered that these wraps are simply a long piece of cloth with tapered ends. So I made one:

   It was a little difficult, because that much of fabric is hard to sew with, but I think it was worth it. The fabric cost me only $12, with plenty leftover for other projects. All of the wraps I've seen for sale have been at least $30 (used) and usually closer to $100. Here is how I did it.

  To make it easier to work with, I folded the entire 6.5 yards down the length in half, then two more times, to bring it down to .81 yards. That also made it 8 layers thick, but since I was only cutting straight lines, it worked. This is after two out of three folds:

  Once I had the fabric folded enough, I slid my cutting mat underneath and cut the whole stack to 20 inches wide... making sure I cut the right direction so it was still 6.5 yards long once unfolded.

20 inches is just to the left of the yardstick

  I set aside one half and unfolded the other. Next, I brought the two long edges together across the entire length, then folded it in half the other direction again. I marked two yards in from the corner on the long side, and 4 inches up from the fold on the short side. Then I used a super long straightedge my husband picked up somewhere to mark a line between the two points. I cut it along that line with my rotary cutter, moving the mat as needed.

Fold at the bottom, short end to the right, slanted cut edge on top

   Now I had a basic wrap shape, I just needed to finish the edges. I used a narrow rolled hem... I took some pictures of that, but my camera threw a fit and they all came out super-blurry. If I owned a serger besides my itty-bitty serger with tension problems, I would have done a rolled serged edge, it would have been a lot faster and easier. You could also fold the edge in twice and sew it down.

 I added a bit of ribbon at the center of the wrap, to make it easier to find.

 

  I've only tried wearing the wrap one way so far, the Double Hammock Carry, but Gaiw was very pleased in spite of her expression in the picture, and fell asleep after about 10 minutes. I'm also planning on trying a couple hip carries, we'll see how those go. =)

  Thanks for stopping by,

Mother's Day gift

 
I though I would pop in to show you what I made my mother for Mother's Day.
  I got the idea for making her some solid perfume from this tutorial.... but I wanted to make it my own.
 
  First, I found a locket at Michael's to put the perfume in, and grabbed a sheet of rose scrap-booking paper. At home, I pulled out the Mod Podge and the Envirotech Lite. I cut a rose from the paper to fit one side of the locket, glued it in, and gave it several coats of the Mod Podge, letting it dry between them. Once I'd sealed the paper I mixed up a batch of the Envirotech Lite and poured it in. I intended to only do one layer of it, but I didn't realize that the frame of the locket had a slight opening in it, so the resin 'sank' as it dried and I had to add another layer. Since I had extra resin, I dipped a dried rose I had laying around in it and set it on waxed paper to dry. When it was about halfway cured, but still slightly pliable, I cut off some of the excess resin with scissors. This is what it looks like... yes, the rose is a little crazy. =)

Next, I made the perfume
  I bought my essential oils from the Ananda Apothecary. I only needed a drop or two of each oil, and by ordering samples instead of full bottles, I could use some of my mom's favorite scents without totally blowing my budget. That rose essential oil is incredibly expensive!
 I used the same ratio of beeswax to carrier oils that Kitty Cats and Airplanes did, 2:1:1. I did a smaller amount though, because my locket was pretty small. I ended up with 1/2 teaspoon beeswax and 1/4 teaspoon each of coconut oil and sweet almond oil. I melted it in a metal bowl over a pot of simmering water, then dropped in a couple drops each of rose and sandalwood. Instead of using a syringe I just carefully poured from the bowl straight into my locket. I did drip a tiny bit on one edge, but it wiped off easily while it was still warm with a paper towel.
  This is what the locket looks like with the perfume and the resin:

   I cut more of the paper in a simple rectangle and added it to a piece of card-stock, then attached it the resined rose with double-sided permanent tape for a simple card.

   And that is what I made my mother for Mother's Day. =)
Thanks for stopping by,

Changing a skirt to a tunic

  I had a couple of A-line skirts that just didn't fit right. The hips were too tight and the waists were too large. (Does anyone else find that most skirts at the store are shaped like that?)  Here they are:

  The first is a lovely super-fine wale corduroy and the embroidery on the second is just beautiful. I couldn't just throw them out, so I did a little cutting (can you tell I did the cutting on the corduroy one before taking a picture? =) ) and sewing to make myself some new tops. For the first, I cut below the belt loops, cut armholes, and a square neckline. I sewed the pieces right sides together at the shoulders, then finished the neck and sleeve holes with a tiny hem. If I'd had enough leftover fabric, I would have used a facing instead, because hems on square necklines aren't easy, not even with slightly stretchy fabric.                                     

   With some of the little scraps that were left I made a folded fabric flower, added a button to the center, and sewed it on.

 I did the second similarly, but cut carefully next to the waistband to preserve it. I picked the zipper out of the waistband and added a couple hook and eyes to it to turn it into a belt.  This one had enough embellishment that I didn't need to change anything on it.

  There are a lot of things I would change about these if I were to make them again. Instead of making them pullover-style, I would probably put in a side zipper and add darts to make them more fitted through the top. There is a little bit of weird bubbling going on next to the arm without the darts. As I mentioned, I would use self-fabric facings instead of trying to hem it, or I would use bias tape as a facing. These were made close to the beginning of my sewing journey, so I'm excusing the poor sewing this time. ;-)
Thanks for stopping by,

New Blog and a refashion

  Ever since I discovered the world of craft blogs, a couple of years ago, I've entertained the idea of writing my own. After all, I love to create and I love to write. All this time though, there have been a couple things in my way.

  Firstly, I just didn't feel like I would have enough to contribute, not enough to regularly post. In the end I realized that some of my favorite bloggers aren't my favorites by reason of quantity, but because I like the things they make. I decided that it doesn't make much difference if I only post once a week, just as long as I have fun doing it. And if I'm lucky, someone besides me will enjoy what I write.

  Secondly, I couldn't come up with a name! That one held me up for months after I decided to start a blog. Finally, a few weeks ago, I was talking with my husband about blogging, and had him suggest a few names. The first ones he came up with just didn't quite fit ('Legendary sewing,' anyone?) but when he came up with the perfect pun on our last name, I just had to go with it. I do, often, say 'grr' when I am sewing and creating. It can be a very frustrating and rewarding experience.

  My final roadblock seems really silly to me: the guts and time to just sit down and write the first post. As you can see, I have finally conquered that one. =)

  So, to make good use of this first post on my new blog, I am going to share a refashion that I did a while back, when I first learned that there was such a thing as refashioning. Here is the 'before' picture in all of its glory (NOT!) :

   I wasn't in love with this dress when it was first given to me... it was handy while I was pregnant but just wasn't flattering.
   I lopped the bottom of it off and hemmed it to turn it into a shirt, slit the neckline and stitched down the sides for a v-neck, and added a denim tie. I took off the original ties and tied them at the shoulders, and stitched down the sides to make it a little more fitted. That turned the dress into this:

  I still wasn't completely happy though. It was just a little awkward to wear and still not very flattering. So after wearing it a couple times I took the leftover fabric and made sleeves out of it, adding lettuce-edging at the wrists. I removed the stitching from the armholes, then sewed in my new sleeves. I also got rid of the waist tie and the shoulder ties, then took out my new hem and lettuce-edged that too. I took the sides in some more, and since it was still too low-necked for me, I cut a bib shape out of a white shirt and inserted it under the v-neck of my new shirt. This is my finished product:

  I have to say, out of all the refashions I have made since, this is the one I wear the most often. I think it looks much better than when I started with it, do you? Or maybe I should keep going and turn it into a dress for one of my little girls... ;-)
 Thanks for stopping by,